Just outside the Grand Bazaar's gate Sofa has a great selection of lovely nothings, like bronze pomegranates – nice but unpractical. Or Anatolian tile with Turkish pattern – you can buy five to decorate the kitchen. The owner Kashif will tell you a story of every item – its age, provenance and sacred meaning. After a ten-minute legend you'll be tempted to buy even an ash-urn.
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